Zula Nyala Heritage Safari Lodge
For general tips for travel in South Africa read
Is an African safari trip on your bucket list?
It was on ours and we went to Zulu Nyala for our 6 days in July 2023.
We absolutely experienced the Magic of Africa and it was even more than we had expected.
Watch this video as it shows everything you need to see and get excited about your stay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-e-xE_GDPo&t=3s
For full FAQs for what this amazing offer includes.
Click this link FAQ- Winning Bidder .pdf - Google Drive
My season preference
I personally like August or Early September if one’s schedule allows.
It is not too cold or too hot. Right before the rainy season
Vegetation is not too thick aiding game viewing
June and July can be cold in the mornings and evenings but similar to the winter in So Cal. Warm during the day. This time suits families with school vacation time
December can be hot and humid and busy as it is mid summer in SA and school breaks.
Testimonials
Most of the other guests were there from a Non-Profit auction as well from all over the USA. I talked to as many of the other guests as possible and I asked if their trip was all they had hoped for.
Everyone loved the accommodations they had chosen and the beautiful grounds.
They really enjoyed the game drives, the food, and the staff.
Several groups had children in their party including ours. Our grandchildren of 10 and 14 loved it all so much they were crying when they had to leave
The camaraderie among the guests is amazing. A huge percentage of the guests are there with a non-profit event package so we are all like-minded people. There are some tour bus groups that come for a 2 day stay.
The guests all mix and mingle throughout their stay sharing stories of their wild life experiences. .
Dunham testimonial
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FiTi8nGR-fI
Dunham kids 10 and 14 testimonial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sl2QnhU47Po
Full Safari Lodge information on their website
https://zulunyala.co.za/heritage-safari-lodge/
Full FAQ’s includes all the general information. Please read it all so you are prepared.
There are photos of everything described in the FAQ’s
FAQ- Winning Bidder (2)Zulu Nyala.pdf
The Heritage Safari Lodge is the Reserve that is with your package..
Disregard the Game Lodge information in the FAQ’s for now
The Game Lodge will re open when bookings warrant it.
Flying there
Zulu Nyala does not book flights but can refer you to a contact who can help.
Flying into Johannesburg and interested in a short stay over.?
Zulu Nyala will meet you at the airport and can help arrange accommodations and
day trips.
Flying straight on to Durban or Richards Bay you make the flight transfer on your
Own
If Zulu Nyala arranges accommodations in Johannesburg, they will arrange your
transfer back to the Johannesburg airport for your ongoing flight
Now to break it all down from our experience and feedback from others….
There is a lot of information included so scroll to the area you want to know about
Zulu Nyala runs a shuttle service between the airport you use and Zulu Nyala.
Durban has better flight choices or Richards Bay.
Must be booked ahead
You are met by your driver holding a sign with your name on it.
See FAQ’s in above link for travel time and costs.
Price is based on number of guests in the shuttle.
Driving can be very challenging so I highly suggest the shuttle
Reception on arrival
Check-in after 2pm on arrival. If it is in time for the afternoon game drive which leaves the winter schedule 3pm and the summer schedule between 3:30pm - 4pm
Ask the receptionist how you join that game drive.
Ask if lunch in the Boma Restaurant is still available. It is included in your package. The menu has a price list but that is for guests not on a package
The Receptionist will give you a welcome information packet and the QR code to reference for information during your stay.
You will be assigned your host Ranger for game drives and meal table assignment. 10 guests per assignment or if your party is large you may be assigned to your own Game Vehicle and table.
Your Ranger will contact you the morning after you arrive to fill you in on the week, answer questions and discuss plans for your week and find out if you plan on any excursions which I highly recommend. See my thoughts outlined under excursions.
Your Ranger takes you on your game drives and excursions.
Your Auction trip package is handled by Reshmi and her staff at Zulu Nyala once they have receceived your information
Accomodations
Your accommodations with the package you got from your fundraiser is a standard room or a standard Hemmingway tent which are amazing. All have ensuite bathrooms and a covered patio Enquire about airconditioning/heating availability when booking.
The grounds are very large and beautifully landscaped so if you have mobility issues discuss room assignment when booking. ,
The standard rooms can accommodate 3 people. Please arrange when booking.
If you have 4 in your group you will need to upgrade if planning to share your room.
You can upgrade your room for a surcharge. See FAQ’s
The tents do not have air conditioning heat/cold. All the other rooms do.
Heritage Camp tent. 2 bedroom camp, each has its ensuite bathroom, one room is in the front more spacious with a lounge area and one in the back.
Watch video for Zulu Nyala Heritage Safari Lodge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-e-xE_GDPo&t=3s
Adding on more guests
See add-on costs in the FAQ’s
If you want to add on others speak to your Non-Profit organizer or me about purchasing another non-profit package. The Non-Profit will receive a 50% donation. There is no donation adding on through Zulu Nyala.
Photos of all the rooms are on the FAQ’s
The grounds
The gardens and grounds are beautiful and buck and monkeys everywhere a fun bonus. It is a pleasure walking around the grounds enjoying all the indigenous plants
All the rooms have a view of the gardens from the patio so sitting enjoying a drink is a pleasure.
There are several lounge areas with WiFi and a TV plus a full fitness center and 2 swimming pools all included in your package.
Meals in the Boma Restaurant.
You are assigned a table of 10 with your group with your guide’s name Depending on your group size you sit with your game drive mates.
3 meals a day in the Boma are included in your package. The meals are delicious and have a large selection of cultural foods to try plus selections you do know. The meals are all buffet style and the serving staff love explaining what the cultural meals are.
There is full cash bar.
The wait staff are delightful, very friendly and attentive.
If you have any food allergies let the staff know and they can accommodate you.
MEAL TIMES:
• Breakfast – 07.00 – 09.30
• Lunch – 12.30 – 14.30
• Dinner – 18:30 – 21.30
Camaraderie. The guests mix and mingle with each other and share stories from their game drives and excursions.
Zulu Cultural Center
Watch videos at the Cultural Center
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkyKsqqSIVo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PV0c-L9TIA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxqTeIIG8C0
There is a Zulu Cultural Village on site and you arrange a tour with reception. The tour is excellent walking you through Zulu life at many stations ending with Zulu Dancing in the large theater and you are invited to join in the dancing towards the end of the performance.
There is Zulu dancing every evening at dinner in the center of the Boma restuarant..
The Full Service Spa
Up for some pampering ? Check out the luxurious Spa
Appointments are made through Reception.
Game drives
The morning and evening game drives are with your experienced professional guide assigned to you and your group on arrival.
The Guides get you up close and personal to over 40 species of game and bird life seen from your open safari vehicle.
Your Ranger will share his excellent knowledge with you during your drives.
Game drives are at 6am and 3pm depending on the season. Your Ranger will instruct you when and where you meet.
Game drives are 2hours long in open Safari Jeeps.
Dress warmly in winter as it is cold. A blanket will be provided as well.
Seats are not assigned but are decided by the guests each drive.
Guests are never allowed to leave the vehicle at any time during the game drive
For safety reasons, there is an age restriction placed on game-viewing activities for children who must be 6 or older to go on the game drives.
Zulu Nyala is a perfect opportunity to experience an African Safari in every way.
We recently took a safari in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti.
Far more expensive and very long drives every day up to 7 or 8 hrs on very rough and dusty roads in winter and wet in summer.
OFF-SITE EXCURSIONS:
Zulu Nyala offers a variety of off-site excursions in the surrounding area are highly recommended and very reasonably priced as the exchange rate is so favorable.
The day excursions are arranged with your guide when you meet with him the day after arrival or at any time if you decide later.
Excursions available include: Crocodile and Reptile Park;; Scuba diving/snorkelling/ weather dependant;; Pineapple farm visit; Gin Distillery visit and tasting; Tiger fishing;; Deep Sea Fishing; Local visit to school/village School vacation dependant; Safari/beach horse riding;
**I highly recommend the following**.
Tembe Elephant Park.
, Cheetah Rehabilitation Centre,
St Lucia boat cruise;
Bayete Elephant interaction
,Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve ½ or full day trip.
I do not recommend the Ilala Weavers and brewery trip. It is just a showroom of Illala Weavers and a bar restaurant.
A comprehensive list of all available excursions as well as pricing can be obtained upon request from the Reservation’s office. Pricing is based on the number of people taking the tour. I do not have any photos of the other excursions as we did not take the others as we were going up to East Africa too. I did ask everyone who went of the excursions and they definitely recommended them.
Incidentals
Bottled water is recommended as Zulu Nyala has borehole water. 2 bottles per day are provided in your room
Rooms are serviced daily.
Laundry, safes and electrical information are all in the FAQs
What to pack suggestions is in the FAQ’s
Cash tab and bill
Zulu Nyala runs a tab for you for any and all purchase during your stay
Your bill is paid at the end of your stay at Reception
Tips
Tips as with anywhere is entirely up to your discretion.
Suggested tips:
Guests may add a percentage to their final bill at check-out. This may be paid by
credit card.
Tips are shared amongst all of the hotel and junior staff, ensuring that those working
hard behind the scenes are also included. However, if you would like to tip your
room service maid, waiver and bartender feel free to do so. Tips in cash are
always appreciated.
Shuttle driver per trip, we suggest in the region of $15 per couple or family of 4 you can tip them directly.
Zulu’s at the Cultural Center always appreciate a tip into their shared tip jar at the end
Tips for your guide are usually given in person at the end of your visit. The amount is completely at your discretion, but the suggested guideline is +/- $200 per couple or family of 4 for your 6-night stay.
Medical issues
Ensure any recommended vaccinations are up to date before your trip. Consult your doctor or pharmacist at least 4 weeks before your departure date or visit www.cdc.gov/travel for more information.
If you use prescription drugs, please ensure you have enough for your entire trip.
Although there is a very low risk of contracting malaria in our area, it is advisable to take precautions, especially in the summer months. It is advisable to use a mosquito spray/repellent or cream for outdoor activities. This is available for purchase at the reception if you happen to forget yours.
Make sure to bring your own medication with you such as Tylenol/Paracetamol in case of a headache. We unfortunately are not able to administer any form of medication. I suggest you take any medications with you that you might use as needed.
If you have any medical concerns that you feel need to be assessed by a Doctor contact Reception. You will be taken to town 30minutes away to see a Doctor.
Travel agency
Zulu Nyala has a full-service travel agency and can assist you with any or all travel planning.
VAT REIMBURSEMENT AT THE AIRPORT
When you leave South Africa ,VAT reimbursement is only available on goods purchased with the proper documentation which is a detailed invoice with a description of the goods as well as a price breakdown of the items and taxes. Officials will also need to inspect the items so they can’t be packed in your checked luggage.
Any questions : Email gillianstravelstories@gmail.com
If you others who want to join you or book a trip of their own share this basic information for a “Trip of a Lifetime” !!
This is an incredible opportunity for a trip of a lifetime and in addition this is also an amazing fundraiser for your Non Profit.
$3000.00 purchase is good for 2 years to use and includes:
6 nights lodging at The Heritage Safari Lodge at Zulu Nyala,
3 meals a day.
2 game drives a day in game viewing jeep with a professional guide and tracker
You choose your travel dates. No blackout dates
Additional local excursions can be arranged and well worth it .
Does not include airfare, transfers, alcohol, soft drinks or tips.
Purchase one or more. Available to everyone
Zulu Nyala donates $1500.00 to your non-profit for every purchase if that can be arranged with your organization.
If you are not able to take your trip within the 2 year window here are the options to extend or transfer your package.
Photo Safari Package Terms & Conditions
❖ The trip is valid for 2 years from Date of Purchase
❖ The trip is Non-Refundable
❖ Trip can only be transferred to another person with written permission from Photo Safari office.
❖ There is an admin fee of $110 for the name change
❖ The expiry date can be extended for another year at an additional fee of $550 per couple.
❖ Kindly note that the auction package extension allowance is a maximum of 2 years from the date of expiry.
Thereafter, the package will be forfeited.
I.e. You can extend your package twice within a two year period after your package has expired at an additional
$550 administration/inflation fee per year.
Any questions
Email gillianstravelstories@gmail.com
South African tips: Getting There and Getting Around
Zulu Nyala Bound or Beyond
These are some tips and feedback from our trip in June-August our summer/SA winter of 2023.
Thoughts on planning your trip.
Travel insurance
https://www.allianztravelinsurance.com/find-a-plan
Baggage tracking
Apple air tag
General info
https://www.sars.gov.za/types-of-tax/air-passenger-tax/
https://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/destinations/africa/south-africa/south-africa-malaria-map
Vaccinations, medications and visas
Visas are not required if travel is less than 90 days
Go through No Visas lines at airports. All well marked.
Vaccinations and Malaria prophylaxis. None required but depending on time of year check for Malaria potential at Zulu Nyala Kwa Zulu area.. Other than Covid and our usual vaccinations we did no others. No Malaria risk in their winter June/July
Make sure you have enough prescription medications you take with you. I suggest you also take any OTC medications you might use at home with you. Pharmacies and stores with OTC items are in larger towns and cities but occasionally out of the area you are in. Pharmacies in many stores have a pharmacist in the OTC area to help as many items have different names.
Cash/local currency/Credit cards
Get a little South African cash in small denominations ( South African Rand,,, aka ZAR aka R ) before you leave from your bank.
Most places take your credit card but some shopping and smaller vendors require cash.
Many places take US dollars but have a few Rands available.
ATMs are not as available in the Zulu Nyala area.
When using an ATM use one at a bank. All banks have a security guard watching their ATM’s
Good idea to have your credit cards in your digital wallet. Apple pay etc .This is safer than pulling out your card or cash
All places bring a POS machine to you to pay, so unlike the US, you dont send your card away out of sight.
Dont flaunt cash at anytime. As with many countries “‘people” watch target tourists.
Carry a lot of R2 and R5 coins in your car for tips at gas stations and parking lots.
Getting there
Flights
Flight prices vary according to US departure city, time of year etc.
Interntional Flights
Sites to put an alert.
https://www.google.com/travel/flights
https://scottscheapflights.com/
Mobil search
South African flights
Very reasonable especially with your exchange rate
https://www.flyairlink.com/en/za/
https://www.domesticflights-southafrica.co.za/kulula-airlines/
https://www.precisionairtz.com/en/
Tips for long haul flights
To select good seats. Use www.seatguru.com
Wear compression knee length sox
Take melatonin, drink a lot of water and non caffein fluids
Google other tips…..plenty to see
It is a long flight so breaking it with a few days somewhere, London or Europe makes it a little easier. BUT there is also food served, movies to watch and endless digital entertainment plus perhaps a good nap when you please !!
Absolutely plan more than the actual Safari trip time. It is a long way for a short time. There are so many magnificent places, cultural experiences and history to see and visit in South Africa. If time is short these are a few recommendations.
Adding on a few days
Few extra day trip ideas
Johannesburg
Johannesburg City bus tour: Excellent way to see every aspect of the city over 8hrs.
https://city-sightseeing.com/en/108/johannesburg/181/hop-on-hop-off-johannesburg
The most interesting sites covering a lot of our horrendous apartheid history
https://www.apartheidmuseum.org/
https://www.constitutionhill.org.za/
Culture: Soweto Township tours to meet locals and see the different lifestyle
https://www.sowetobackpackers.com/
Cape Town
Most magnificent part of SA. Excellent day tour to see the whole Cape Town and surrounds. https://www.citysightseeing.co.za/en/cape-town
Make sure you include a hop off to go up Table Mountain.
There are endless areas to visit all over the Cape Town area. Google it
Tours of Robben Island, the political prison where Mandela and many others spent up to 30 years.
MUST book way ahead.
My most memorable experience I have had.
https://www.robben-island.org.za/tours
For the adventurous https://www.capetownabseil.co.za/
Now you are in South Africa !!!
Tourism is now huge in South Africa so google endless resources.
The African hospitality is the best in the world !!!
Happy, friendly,helpful, well trained and professional. People, especially non whites love to chat with you.
Load Shedding: means no power-
South Africa has 2-3hr periods every day everywhere when the electricity is shut down completely.
‘Download the App EskomSePush https://apps.apple.com/za/app/esp-loadshedding/id968648379 and enter the area you are in to see the schedule.
All businesses have generators but local homes may have a generator, solar or flashlights.
Power your devices when you have power. Carry a backup battery for your phone/camera on you. Charge that when you have power. Dont wait until any of your batteries get low.
Traffic lights are off during load shedding making it a 4 way stop. Generally, drivers are really good following a 4-way. Hard to see dark traffic lights in the dark so stay alert
Electricity.. It is different in South Africa. Take a converter with you. Available on Amazon
Phone use
Research your supplier for International use and costs
Get a Sim Card for your phone. Research what you need either physical card or E-card based on your needs.
You can buy a Sim card at the Johannesburg airport and we used Vodacom. Check the tourist package. Be aware it only lasts 30days and poof, gone on your 31st day and you can add to it at any Vodacom store. !!! Essential for GPS. Before you leave the salesperson ask if there is anything else you need to know. https://www.vodacom.co.za/vodacom/terms/vodacom-travel-sim
Whats App: we set up groups to communicate to several people at one time with the ews. We used Whats App exclusively for calls, texts etc in South Afica and International. Occasionally there is no WiFi where you are or power is off.
Driving in South Africa
Car rental
I used https://www.discovercars.com/
This site breaks it all down for you.
I used First Car Rental and highly recommend them in every way.
When you pick up your car ensure the car has a toll station transponder
Driving thoughts to consider.
GPS essential
Drive on the left side of the road which is easy once you get used to it.
Major cities and major roads are good, signage is good. Toll stations well marked. You drive to the lane that has the orange E-Tag sign.
There are also sensors over many of the roads that beep when your transponder is read for that road use. Toll payment is deducted from your car rental cost.
Long distances to drive, potholes and excessive truck traffic in many areas an issue.On many of the roads there are double trailer coal, timber,sugar cane and other trucks. They drive in convoy many times so they might pull into the yellow breakdown lane to their left to give you a little room to pass.
Roads mostly out of the cities have lots of potholes to watch out for to avoid. WAZE App warns you with “PotHole ahead” and if it is still there you click the App if you want to for WAZE points !!!
There are thousands of white Toyoto Taxis marked with colored stickers on the side. They beep a lot which is their language to pick up fares. They also may pull over suddenly when a passenger on the side of the road signals for a ride. Even on the highways. (freeways)
There are lots of pedestrians walking along the side of the roads even on Freeways.
At traffic lights vendors walk between the cars hawking their wares.
Gas (petrol) is very cheap. There are no self serve gas stations. An attendant will direct you into a line, fill you up, do windows or other checks if needed. They take credit cards at your window, check the total. Give them a R5 tip. Fill up when you are half way full, as gas stations can be far apart in many areas.
When you park in an open parking area for sightseeing, look to see if there is a sign “ Wash Your Car R75” By parking there you agree and will have to pay !!!
Watch carefully for pedestrians at night. In laurel areas where there are no street lights there are dozens of pedestrians walking along the side of the road and crossing the road in dark clothing. VERY hard to see
If your car is pulled over by the police to give you a ticket. Get the ticket form from them and say you will pay at the police station. Sadly especially in Johannedburg some police are bribing drivers under the guise of a ticket.
For more driving in South Africa tips
https://www.arrivealive.mobi/road-safety-advice-for-foreigners-driving-in-south-africa
Accommodations for bookings not at Zulu Nyala if travelling elsewhere
Grocery and other shopping
Grocery stores are much like ours. Checkers, Woolworths, Pick N Pay most common. Wine normally available in these stores but other alcohol is purchased in Bottle stores, liquor store.
The parking lots have a security person closest to the front entrance in black clothes and a Securityt patch. There are many other delightful free lance parking attendants in a yellow vest who will watch your car and also help you load your car. Tip R5
Safety
As with anywhere in the world safety tips are valuable.
We felt completely safe everywhere.
In Cape Town Central Business District particularly there are police on many corners and small police stations on many of the sidewalks.
We had a pickpocket experience in Cape Town when a vendor kept Ron talking. If you dont want to stop just say no and walk on.
UBER
Uber is very easy, safe,realiable,quick and cheap to get you anywhere
There are other ride share companies but we used UBER
VAT REIMBURSEMENT AT THE AIRPORT:
VAT reimbursement is only available on goods purchased with the proper documentation which is a detailed invoice with a description of the goods as well as a price breakdown of the items and taxes.
Foreign visitors to South Africa may claim back the value added tax (VAT) paid on items which they take out of the country when the total value exceeds R250. (Not food or restaurants bills)
Officials will also need to inspect the items so they can’t be packed in your checked luggage.
https://www.gov.za/services/custom-duties/how-apply-vat-refund
A few random photos that show some of the information in the blog.
“Stumped by Africa”
2 months have flown by and we have about 3 weeks left. The months have been filled with amazing experiences, we have re-connected with many of my family and met many lovely people.
What became totally clear very soon was that my thought of sharing our time with everyone who is interested in following along was not going to happen !!!
I particularly wanted to provide a lot of information about the Zulu Nyala Safari Lodge for people who have purchased it as they are starting to plan their trips. BUT…….I have a lot to say and again just do not have the opportunity to get that done.
So……I am not going to keep hoping for some time etc to write and will spend days at my desk back home on September 2nd after I get over jet lag!!!! and will start with Zulu Nyala,
I had posted a quick post on my Facebook explaining no stories, “Stumped by Africa”
Some of my South African friends who live there were concerned people would get the wrong idea about South Africa and added these thoughts which are totally correct.
Those thoughts.
You are making us sound idiotic. Our country is quite progressive and still holds so many attributes. We have Exemplary Education, Art, Culture, Amazing History, unbelievable beaches, wild game that blows your mind, plus live a pretty fine lifestyle. Africa is GREAT!!!! Seriously takes your heart…and always will.
Another friend says
I second that!
One more friend says
Well said! There is only one Africa
So As you read what I write my stumped was all the reasons I couldn't get to adding stories !!!
In South Africa, I am doing the driving and having to concentrate on the wrong side of the road !!! with Ron navigating, so brain dead by evening!!
The roads in Joburg and Cape Town are very good but out in Northern Transvaal now called Mapulalanga, avoiding the hundreds of potholes is the game.
I am visiting with many, many family and friends ( about 45 in total), and by evening brain dead again or just running on.
I can't believe I am actually admitting that I do run on empty as everyone always wonders where I get all my energy!!! Well……….
We are going on tours and to museums and exploring places South Africa has to offer as I remember what was and now is. Everywhere we are reading and absorbing everything like a sponge.
Then Kenya and Tanzania
Amazing countries with magnificent animals, scenery, camps, awesome people, experiences and roads in the game parks that provide what is called “The African Massage “ as you are bounced around all over your seat !!! That is why every safari company has a Land Cruiser that deals with the abuse it gets !!!
There are long drives from Park to Park and the main road in Kenya is crazy with bumper to bumper transport trucks all traveling from Mombasa to African countries with their goods. It was crazy. Thank goodness we were not driving but it was quite something watching Daniel, our guide manage to pass by the skin of his teeth, biting our nails even though we were assured he was on it !!
When we were doing long drives on the roads in South Africa, we were also faced with endless transport trucks with lumber, sugar cane and coal. I learned to drive like a race car driver to get past them!!!
Then in general everywhere, other “reasons/ excuses for being “stumped”
WiFi is very spotty if at all and usually only in reception or the restaurant. There are often just buffers or drops a lot. I regularly started trying to get in the writing and being booted all the time was a challenge !!!
In South Africa, there is Load Shedding, no power for 2-3 hours a day but at least scheduled. Usually in the evenings when I would be home and ready to log on so…..no WiFi.!!
I have also attempted writing notes but stumped again. Carsick or scribbles with all the bumping and weaving.!!
So in answer to my friends, South Africa is an incredible country, has the most magnificent beaches, scenery, vegetation and wild game and so much more. It is now a country for all, so yes, there is a lifestyle that works for everyone in every way in whatever way it does.
So, that's it from me for now, I am giving up trying to share from the road and will share endlessly from the desk back home. Stories, photos and videos of incredible experiences will follow. I personally want to write them all so I can remember what we did. When I am 100 I can look back and “remember when”!!!
KEEP LOOKING !!!
“This is Kenya”
Lake Nakuru National Park Kenya. Lake Nukuru Lodge and game drives.
5th August 2023
I have several hours today and was determined to get something written. I had attempted yesterday but the WiFi kept just buffering so I gave up, so today I asked the reception if there was a stronger WiFi or area that would let me in. Voila!!!! Agnes the lodge manager had welcomed us when we arrived and in true warm Kenyan manner gave us the Lodge orientation and today was so kind and offered me the use of their conference center to sit and write, so I am starting with “Lake Nakuru Lodge ” then will do the Zulu Nyala stories and tips.
I am sitting looking out the window looking out at the endless African plains dotted with hundreds of the well-known Acacia trees that Africa is known for all over the world and Lake Nakuru in the distance. I see 3 rhinos, the herd of buffalo are still out in the open area grazing as well. Some baboons running across the lodge lawn and dozens of busy industrious Weaver birds twittering loudly in the trees next to the window as they build their nests for their bird wife's inspection.!!
We arrived in Lake Nakuru a few days ago and settled into our lovely chalet at Lake Nakuru after another delicious lunch. The Lodge is in the middle of the Reserve with sweeping views of the open plains and Lake Nakuru in the distance. The dining area, bar and all the buildings are beautifully decorated and well maintained. The young Maasai dressed in traditional dress walking around on the patio. Adds to the whole feel of Kenya PHOTOs
Karibu, the Kenyan greeting “welcome” and we certainly felt welcome as we were offered a glass of juice to wash down the dust by a happy smiling receptionist holding the tray of juice. Certainly adds to the atmosphere. I highly recommend Lake Nakuu Lodge for a most enjoyable stay in Kenya.
We are so enjoying the people in Kenya as everyone we come across for any reason is smiling and happy and of course happy to see us. They do hospitality so well, love their Jobs and are so genuine.
This is clearly high season in Kenya for Safaris as there are at least 60 other Safari company jeeps filled with visitors from all over the world.
Now to share our early morning game drive filled with today's game stories.
6am before dawn, we climbed into our Safari jeep with Daniel, our awesome guide for this week in Kenya well before any other jeeps were ready to go. It was still dark as we bumped along the dusty road filled with anticipation for the morning sightings. As the sun began to slightly light the veld, we were treated to a large herd of buffalo grazing totally undisturbed by presence and only gave an occasional glance of curiosity in our direction.
Right around the next bend there was a beautiful family of Rothschild Giraffes highlighted by the sunrise, busily eating the leaves with their long black tongues working around the long sharp thorns. I am mesmerized by nature and could sit and watch for hours. All animals are equipped with what they need to live successfully and it is too bad us humans don't always use what we have !!!
We were still the “Early Birds” out on the roads with none of the other dozens of Jeeps disturbing the early morning animal behavior. Many of the different animals have young that are only about 2-6 months old and we were treated to mother, baby, and family animal morning activities. A Buffalo calf suckling his mother at the water's edge while the herd enjoyed their morning drinks at the waterhole and the other calves frolicking about.
A few hyena families enjoying the morning, one mother lying on the middle of the road with her baby feeding quietly totally disregarding our jeep rudely driving up to them. Disgruntled, they got up and moved to the side and continued the morning feed. Another hyena family nearby were also taking care of their young and twin cubs were jostling for position on their mother !!
Further down the road after several huge bumps in the road we came across a herd of 15 giraffes all close to the road also having their morning feed of leaves between the thorns. The 2 baby giraffes were barely able to reach the higher branches so settled for the lower bushes. Adult giraffes have long necks to eat higher up with dark tongues to avoid sunburn and also cannot eat lowering their necks for long or the blood rushes to their brain and they pass out !!! Nature is astounding.
Near the giraffes was our next treat , a family of Warthogs with 4 lovely very young piglets all running across the road with their tails up like antennae. Warthogs and Giraffes have a very symbiotic relationship so are often near each other as do so many animals with their own symbiosis. A Warthog relies on the giraffe to spot trouble as they are always kneeling down eating so they know to run when the giraffe does !!! Poor Warthog, they are one of Africa’s Ugly 5 and their name as we know from Lion King is Pumba which translated is “stupid”. So you see them run off with the Griffies to safety and forget after a few minutes why they are running, stop and go back. I wonder how we humans know this !!!
When you are on a game drive, each of you watches their side of the jeep for animals near and far, hidden by their camouflage or running away and alert the driver guide who normally spots the game before we do and our guide Daniel is always on the ball. He sees things way before we do in the distance and always has good information for what we are seeing but this morning I got the spotter prize. I was sure I could see 2 Rhino hidden in the brush not too far on my side and yelled “Daniel stop, reverse, Rhino hidden on the left”
What another treat this spotting was. We patiently sat watching the brush move a little and the Rhino slowly leave their cover as they browsed towards the road and there they were right in front of us crossing to the other side.Now we could clearly see they were Black Rhino by their mouths built for plucking leaves off bushes and not browsing like the White (Wyd) Rhinos do, once again, nature provides what's needed.
As we pulled away the radio chatter began as the other jeeps were now out on their game dives and the guides all stayed in contact to let each other know what they had seen and where. They also stop as they pass each other and chatter away in Swahili to let the others know what they have seen as we wave to the other tourists with their heads out of the open tops of their jeeps.
As always we enjoyed the herds of Zebras with their individual striped patterns, the Impalas that are ever present with their constantly wagging little tails brushing away annoying flies, baboons striding purposefully somewhere and troops of monkeys grooming each other looking for lice or whatever it is they look for and wrestling playfully. A huge flock of Pelicans and another area hundreds of Flamingos
We had hoped to see a lion this morning but we did see his paw print so we just missed him !!
As we were heading back for breakfast we came over the hill and what a surprise, not an animal but a beautiful narrow waterfall cascading down a high cliff into the water below. Daniel drove the jeep across the shallow river and we were able to get out of the jeep on the other side to take some photos of each other and the waterfall with a buffalo skull.
We got back at 9 for breakfast and were again welcomed by the staff with their happy greeting of “Jambo and Karibu” and Phillip, our ever-attentive waiter said he would bring my pot of tea with milk on the side as he remembered from yesterday. The end of this morning was also special, we had fun with the waitstaff and cooks making pancakes and omelets. They asked me if “that man” pointing to Ron is my husband and stared in disbelief that we had been married for 53 years…… 3 times older than they are.!!!
We had a lovely conversation with Danile ( our guide) over our breakfast about how he lives in his village and his philosophy of raising his daughter and the value of an all encompassing education. Education must prepare a child to become the best person he or she can be. According to him, the older generation of some Kenyans believe education is what the child needs so that when they,the older parents are old, that child can take care of them !!! We also compared our political systems and as everywhere many in government are in it for themselves. Realizing the staff were still at their food stations in case we still wanted more despite it being nearly an hour after breakfast ended we apologized for holding them up and headed out. They had not wanted us to feel rushed to leave just to get their stations cleared up. This is Africa.
“Running on Empty”
Jet Lag !!! Never…. I had worked so many weird and long hours for years and years and I never felt a thing. Huh, you would think I would learn to never say never.!!
Yikes, I arrived in Joburg and I felt like some alien had taken over my brain or I was an extra for a Zombie movie and looked around for a camera crew. I had no idea that this weird out-of-brain experience was actually jet lag after 22 hrs of traveling or is this what happens when one ages or should I seek medical help/!!!
Getting my South African SIm card was easy peasy but the instructions must have gone right over my head. I couldn't figure out how to use Whatsapp, email or anything on my phone and my laptop was a foreign object on my lap. Jet lag or stroke? I did a quick stroke assessment as that is what nurses do, and decided this was what “Running on Empty” feels like.
Eventually with an additional lesson from the Vodafone lady who kindly said my difficulty was her bad and she fiddled with my phone and handed it back and voila, it worked fine, almost but good enough to get me into the information for our AirBnB
We went to Ist Car Rental. Booth in an endless line of rental companies in a row and it was easy to find. The booking was in order and thank goodness I had upgraded to a bigger car the week before or we would never have fit all our luggage in. After a full explanation all in greek to my fuddled brain, we found our car and loaded up. As you know I never get anxious but…. Driving on the wrong side has given me a blip or 2 in anticipation and now with an alien in control of my brain, this was going to be an adventure.
However, as long as I followed cars, remembered to keep the lines on my wheel side, and the lights and stop signs on my side and with Ron navigating, I was fine until I saw a sign telling us we had a Toll ahead. Ron frantically reached for his backpack I had put on the floor in the back to get some cash and accidentally hit the gear lever putting it into neutral !!!! and I couldn't figure out what happened. Not a good start, not knowing the gear levers with a brain-dead driver on a major highway. So glad I have bushy gray hair as it always excuses my driving even at the best of times.
We sailed through the Toll as we found out the rental cars are all equipped with a toll reader that reads the license plate which is then paid out of our car deposit.
TIP: You do not need money for the tolls and drive to the lane that has TAGS or an E and sail right through. Some of the tolls are just a set of bars up above the road wth a reader that clicks as you pass under it.
We found our rental house just fine. It is a lovely little cottage on the property of our hosts, Allison and Stanley, who are delightful. Most helpful and we felt like family. The home had everything we needed. The gardens were lovely and made me know I was now in South Africa. We unpacked and made a revised plan to meet my nephew and family, Vivian, Michele and my brother John on Saturday instead of us getting him when we flew in. Brain-dead decision, perfect.
Less brain dead worked well on my driving and we drove for about 40 minutes, amazed at how SA had grown and changed, businesses everywhere. Excellent roads, no potholes, courteous drivers all of which we had been warned about. With Ron navigating,we got to a lovely outdoor farm restaurant, the Shed and Silo where the owner greeted us all and welcomed us to SA with an amazing warm welcome. VIvian and Michele do know her from being there a few times but I thought such a SA welcome compared to our restaurants in many ways.We were joined by Caitlin, Kyle’s (Vivians son) girlfriend who is delightful.
We had a lovely 5hr lunch under the trees catching up. They are all the same but 16 years since I saw them last has had an impact on my brother who is 79. I knew right then that I was really happy we had come to South Africa so see him and the others. We are all getting older and my mantra came to mind loud and clear.
“Do what you can, when you can and while you can” Who knows what tomorrow will bring.
We were really really cold for the first few days. Outside is lovely, sunny and warm and lovely but the houses are freezing, as I remembered.
There is no heating other than a space heater that does help a bit. So we would go to bed in our matching gray thermal underwear clutching hot water bottles looking like Mama and Papa Smurf with a treasure….which a hot water bottle is. We got a little used to the cold once we were not so tired but still in jackets in the house and hot water bottles to bed.
Sunday was our “family/friend gathering “ at our house which was lovely, less people as several forgot it was Fathers Day and others, one of their family was sick. Jenny, my cousin Vals daughter, her son Hudson and his twin boys of 5 came. It was lovely to catch up with them. Hudson is quite the entrepreneur doing great things in the perfume insdusrty. My friend Hal, who was married to my good friend Christabel who died of breast cancer 15 years ago. Yola, John's friend who is totally delightful and is amazing how she takes John to all kinds of events and places and has for several years.
We had sandwiches, wine, beer, and sodas. The beer was non-alcoholic as Ron went into the store and got John's beer but forgot !!! we had other people coming!! The beer drinkers were very good about it and made a joke they could drive home safely,
Monday, we drove into Rosebank about a 2o minute drive and with Ron the navigator and Gill the driver getting better by the day, arrived safely. We caught a Hop On Hop Off Johannesburg 6 hr hour tour which I would recommend to everyone. It was excellent and covered every area of the city. The commentary was excellent. We were taken past huge gated, high walled with electric fences on the top huge homes in the well to do homes in the areas I remember well. Then past the mansions in Houghton including Mandela’s home which was again irony, past the home he has set up to support children, his main love and underprivileged groups.
Very clean and well kept streets and properties.
Then into the main CBD of Johannesburg (Central Business District ). Oh my, we entered a very 3rd world African City !!! Typical stalls selling stuff on the sidewalk, people everywhere, laundry hanging on balconies, trash everywhere, buildings vacant and dilapidated, and on and on . The last picture is the Florence Nightingale Nursing home (Hospital) where I was born and so sad to see it all dilapidated. We only got off at Gold Reef City as the guys needed a pee break. Huge casino, not much going on, and hard to find a food place that sold coffee. I saw a Milky Lane which is part of my memory lane and coffee was on the menu plus the shakes I loved. The guys ordered lattes and off she went. Came back after ages and said, “No, you cannot have coffee”!!! “Why not?” asked Ron. “We have no milk” was the reply !!!!
“So I presume I can't have a milkshake then” I asked “Nooooo, you cannot have a milkshake, we have no milk” !! Only in Africa !!!
The rest of the tour was excellent and at the end we needed to find a toilet, John is worse than Ron!!!
Then went into Mama Sambas for dinner. The Rosebank Mall is huuuuuuge, pedestrian only and has any store, restaurant you could hope for. Mama Sanbas was near the toilet so it was good enough for me and it was awesome. The service was amazing and Ron and I had prawns in Garlic sauce and delish. With the Rand exchange into dollars it was about $6.
Other than the food and the service, what I loved was seeing a long table of young Africans, a few Indians and one white guy all engaged having what seemed like an office party. This is now the norm,thank goodness.
I love seeing all the non-whites, now, well-educated, enjoying life that is now available to them. That actually got my attention, maybe a little more than my prawns.
We wanted to get home before load shedding happened so we left the Mall
Load shedding is quite something everyone seems to just accept as a way of life and manage around it. There is an App from Eskom, the power company that tells you daily when it happens in your area on the app. So you just plan your meals and everything around that, make sure everything is charged and use a flashlight if you don't have solar. Most people including our hosts have battery operated lanterns to give some light. The other thing is…..all the traffic lights become 4 way stops as those lights go off that are really hard to see when it is dark. I have to say everyone does the robots, as they are called here, well and life goes on anyway. !!! Water is also affected in many areas due to lack of power too, so nothing comes out of the tap!!!
The whole thing was far worse as power just went off without a schedule until the protests we saw all the Aficans and some whites held a few months ago. Ramaphosa, the President said yikes, appointed a Minister of Power and this scheduled App was developed and it far more manageable.. Protests do work !!!
Tuesday Mr Navigator, decided he and we were having trouble with Google maps as the info only showed as the turn was needed and talk about frustration, enter WAZE, much better.
We set off to visit Val, my 89 yr old cousin in Pretoria. She is remarkable, despite a hip and shoulder replacement and a plate in her wrist all over the past few years, she is like a 70yr old. Spry,sure footed, has all her marbles, does her gardening, cooked us lunch and we chatted endlessly for about 6 hrs. She has always been amazing. Allistaire, her son is now 60 and lives with his wife Rani in the little cottage on the grounds popped in as he left his little dog for Granny Doggy Day care for the afternoon. He is very reclusive so it was lovely seeing him. Didn't see Rani.Val looked after James, her husband in their home for 20 years with advanced Altzheimers and her mother in a home nearby also for 20 years with advanced Altzheimers. She attributed her falls with injury due to exhaustion and rightfully so.
I will go more into Val’s beliefs and activities over the years and clearly activism runs deep in our family. She was and is amazing.
Fast forward to the following week. My stories may not truly be in timeline format. I add what I can when I have internet which has been challenging.
I was now feeling competent on the wrong side of the road but clearly had not really learned where all the dials were and clearly did not watch the fuel gauge until the little red light popped up. Now we were all “Running on Empty” and we were on back roads with “petrol stations' far apart. We made it to the first station we saw on fumes!!!
In South Africa you do not have self serve. You pull into the gas station and one of the many attendants comes running out with a wide smile asking what kind of petrol? The attendant fills up the tank, cleans the front and back windows, produces the credit card machine, you insert or tap the card, give him a five Rand tip and you are on your way.
Anyway, I do have a lot more to tell but I wanted to get an update posted.
We are well and safe and all is good and I am totally good on the wrong side of the road.
We are finding the Africans happy, friendly, competent and helpful everywhere and quite a few very grumpy whites complaining how bad it has all become!!!
Reason for lack of stories checklist:
No WiFi
No power as it is load shedding time
No time as we are on the go creating these stories
Visiting family and friends and talking endlessly
Taking game drives
“Running on Empty”
We have been on the go since we got here a month ago, hence no time to write the adventure/experience stories often.
The Internet has been very spotty and after talking, going around seeing things and driving, I am usually too tired in the evenings.I have a lot of photos to organize etc too. Now to the last of this story.
Talking about driving……that has been one of the biggest contributors to me “running on empty”!!!
I am completely at home on the wrong side, Ron is a great navigator using Waze but…..
The City traffic is much the same as at home and the drivers are also much the same.
However, there are hundreds and hundreds of taxis everywhere as it is the main form of transport for Africans everywhere, local and distant. People who want to catch a taxi wait on the side of the road in the cities or freeways or any road. They indicate their need for a ride with a series of hand and finger signs that the taxis all understand, so the taxi just pulls off to pick them up despite the traffic.
This is all so interesting I will write about them in a separate story “Taxis other earning a living ”
Once out of the cities most of the roads are only 2 lanes and much further to drive that the map or GPS miles indicate. You set off on a 7hr drive to get to your next destination and 12 hrs later you arrive.
The long double trailer transport trucks are endless everywhere. The potholes are everywhere so dogging potholes and passing trucks becomes a mind blowing game of chance that I have names “Watch out for”
Waze plays their part in this game but constantly announcing “watch out potholes ahead. When we pass that announced pothole, Waze asks if it is still there so Ron has had fun playing an online game by clicking “yes” and getting points. At least Waze uses the english “pothole ahead” and not in Afrikaans “Slag Gat” ahead said ‘slaaaaagggg gggggat voor” guttural throat sounds !!!
The trucks are often 3-4 in a row so the timing to pass is critical and not having a death wish, I drive like a Granny… which of course I am. Other drivers just go for it and always seem to just squeeze in the nick of time every time so far that we have seen. There were many times I just had to pretend I was that Andretti race car driver guy and floor it and pray.
All the way there are signs that are part of “The Watch Out Game” depending on where you are.
“Watch out for timber trucks” and some are even pulled by a tractor and others a huge long fully laden truck filled with long tree trunks being sent to the lumber mills to make support beams for the mines and other functions.
“Watch out for sugar cane trucks” are looooong trucks filled to the brim of huge cage-like trailers dropping sugar cane stalks all along the road adding to things to watch out for on the road.
“Watch out for coal trucks” that are double trailer huge trucks filled with coal from the mines that we hear is mostly exported. Their load is at least covered with tarps.
“Watch out for Elephants” and one would think they would be easy to spot !!! But no, they suddenly decide to cross and in the dark……yikes
“Watch out for Hippos” Close to St Lucia that really is a problem as they are on the main roads and also on the streets in the town. They leave the water and amble up across the main street to go to the park and residents' front lawn This is clearly not Temecula.
“Watch out for pedestrians”. A large percentage of Africans walk on the side of the road as they do not have transportation. In the dark it is really hard to see them in dark clothing as one navigates, trucks and potholes!!!
Many days of driving and particularly after a 12 hr drive as described I am totally “Running on Empty.”
So this certainly shows why I haven't written many stories yet !!!
Once again being here reminds me how easy life is in the US.
TIP: If you don't have to drive don't…..hire the shuttle services and tours that are offered by the hundreds.
London, what were we thinking!!!
Ron and I have always gone for the gusto and we are suddenly realizing our “gusto” is not the best approach and I hate to add, “at our age”
I have had every intention of writing many blog stories since we left home but…….after a full day of doing this and that, driving with much concentration and really feeling 76 or maybe even 100!!! I didn't have any brain power left to sit and write. There is also the problem here with “Power Shedding” more on that in another story. No Internet access often and a variety of excuses but all very real and are a big reminder for me that we live life so much easier in the US. More on that later too.
We have been in South Africa for 2 weeks already and I am at last escaping many of my excuses to start our adventure stories from the very beginning.
We sure have such unreasonable expectations, we had intended on taking a carry-on and a backpack……right? We ended up with 2 full suitcases, 2 carry-ons, and a backpack each. Dumb dumb dumb… We have just tossed out over half of that and are down to 1 suitcase and backpack each.
Each story will have a few tips inserted in case they help others.
The flight from San Diego to London was 11 hrs long but actually fine. I had booked an aisle and window seat and we were lucky none filled the middle seat. That was the only empty seat on the plane. That made a huge difference as we could put our backpacks under the empty seat and keep our legroom. We checked our suitcases through to Joburg.
TIP: Booking an aisle and window often leaves the middle open !!
We arrived in London and Heathrow is huuuuuuuge. It took us 1½ hrs to get through the maze of long hallways, down 3 long escalators, through passport control and as we had nothing to declare, we went looking for the place to check our carry-ons for the day. This took about 30 mins, a long story….but got the 2 bags checked in for 15 Pounds each.
Went to catch the tube and after endless Youtube views at home I felt very smug that it would be a breeze with Apple Pay touchless pay at the turnstile…..wrong, It worked for me but it just wouldn't work for Ron when I opened it for him to use right behind me. I learned we couldn't use my Apple Pay right away again so Ron had to use his CC which was OK once we knew that.
Tip: each have your own Apple Pay.
The London Tube system is well marked and easy to follow.
The ride to Piccadilly was an hour and didn’t have too many passengers until halfway when work people hopped on. We got off at Piccadilly to find we had to follow the Apple touch and CC again to the turnstile to get out…. I asked the worker man standing there why and he told us it is to get out but we don't pay again ...the magic of the cyber world!!!
Wow, Piccadilly Circus, and for the kids that is not a big top with animals and acts !!! was sooooo busy with cars, people, buses, and taxis all buzzing around the statue of Eros, the Piccadilly landmark. Many of these roads that go around a landmark and off into different directions are called Circus, the Latin derivation for Circle !! Down one street there were Union Jack flags strung across the street for a long way, either always there or from the Coronation. I was most delighted to see the other main street was similarly hung with rows and rows of Pride Flags.
We hopped onto the Hop-On-Hop-off Big Bus line which turned out not to be a good idea at all. We planned to see a lot of London from the open top in the short time we had. Good grief, there was a lot of construction going on so the route was altered and missed all the landmarks I had particularly mapped out with the route map wanted to go past in the time allocated. So no Big Ben, Houses of Parliament, and a few others. Oh well, I had lived in London for 14 months so it wasn't like my first visit. This reminds me that things often change and oh well, move along.
The traffic was really heavy so the bus moved at a snail's pace as we passed Trafalgar Square with Nelson looking down from his column, St Paul's Cathedral then a view of Tower Bridge in the distance as we crossed London Bridge. People watching as they walked past the bus faster than we were going was the highlight of that ride. I thought we would get off at Tower Bridge stop, get a photo with the bridge behind us then head to the Tube there as it was taking tooooo long on the bus. Sadly, the stop didnt give a view of Tower Bridge so foiled again.!!! So I don't suggest a Hop On Hop Off bus unless you have a whole day at least. In addition, the commentary was really stupid!
So now I had a thought for a fun photo stop to go to Victoria Station and get a photo of Ron next to a phone booth …..that is where our life and family began, with a phone call from a red London phone box at Victoria Station.
When I met Ron, I told him to “Buzz off”. I was not looking for a relationship but he was. He arrived in London a few months later and used the red London phone box to call my house…..yup, I had given him my number not thinking he would use it. He left a message with one of my housemates to call him at the number at that phone box and he would wait for the call.
8 hrs later when I got home I did call the number and good grief he answered the phone with “ Hi Babe”!!!
He didn't “buzz off” and 14 months and many fun travels together we were married in Johannesburg.
53 years later we were now standing outside of Victoria Station looking for a red London phone box that started it all.
As we went down to find the right line we realized it was now not only hundreds of tourists but getting close to the work hour rush, people all rushing down like termites in a panic to the station !!! We got to Victoria and couldn't find a phone booth so settled for a photo in front of the station facade. Good enough. Next stop the toilet for Ron, he found one with an attendant who asked for 50P to pee !!! He only had pound notes so asked if he could give a dollar, took out his money clip that had 80 pounds and about 50 dollars clipped into it, peed, came back out and went down the next escalator to the station for Heathrow……oh dear for us and hooray for a Pickpocket…. Money clip GONE!!! Oh well, lesson learned and a great lesson before we hit Africa. He no longer has a money clip to pull out; that was his custom !!!
Then came the sardine experience !!! I wish I had a photo to tell the story but I couldn’t even reach my phone in the sardine can to take it The tube on one side of the platform was filled to the brim with people when they had a medical emergency on it, so everyone was sent to the other side to get on that tube. When I say everyone I mean EVERYONE and added to us resulted in nose to toes people.How the door closed I have no idea. At each station one got off and 10 more pushed in !!! The mass of bodies all moved at the same time and really sweet, one younger lady motioned for me to come and get her seat…..no way could I get to it through the mass of human flesh but I waved thank you anyway…I guess gray hair has advantages but how refreshing to be offered. That seat has a sign about it with a picture of an old person, a pregnant person and a wheelchair person that I noticed on the train going in that morning. Not being pregnant or in a wheelchair, clearly made me the “old person”!!! At one stage I managed to get to a rail at the end of that carriage so my backpack was on the rail and none behind me but…..my nose was pressed into some man's back!!! I just hoped he didnt fart !!!
Quite the experience, everything in life is an experience……this sealed it for me…..London…What was I thinking!!!
Tip: If you have a limited time in London for a layover and ours was 9 hrs, use the Heathrow Express line. 25 British pounds each, kids free, very fast 15 mins vs 55 mins and far less crowded.
We left Heathrow 2 ½ hrs late due to some engine issue…..once again we booked a window and aisle seat so had no one in the middle which was again awesome. We were on board so we could watch movies and nap which I did. Ron and I had figured out the controls when we got on and it all worked. A little while later he said his sound was no longer working…. Bummer, with 11 hrs to go. Soon discovered he didn't have his earplugs in…..Funny funny and being tired I found this hysterical. At 12 midnight dinner was served and the rest of the 10hrs dozing on and off.
After a good English breakfast, we got ready to land in Johannesburg at the Oliver Tambo International Airport.
Funny how things change, Oliver Tambo was charged with treason along with the others fighting for a free South Africa and spent 30 years exiled (Google for more ) and now the main airport in South Africa is named for him. Awesome !!!
We went through passport control in the line for No Visa needed, grabbed our bags ...yup bags as mentioned, went through nothing to declare and in no time at all we were through!!!
There were lots of African porters at the exit all offering help, taxis, etc but all we wanted was a SIM Card and to head to the car rentals. so kept saying no thank you. The ones Ron engaged more than I did. stuck to us like glue !!!,
Bye bye London, hello South Africa.
I am finishing up this story in the dark as we have no power for the next hour due to load shedding so I am not looking at typos etc as I want to get this up.
I also need light to add my story and photos to the website …..so this will be added after I cook dinner when the power comes on and I get back to my laptop. Life is so much easier in the US. Don't take it for granted.
I don't.
My next story is “Running on Empty” to be added when there are no “excuses” available.
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes” Marcel Proust.
Many years ago, I was on one of my fun solo travel adventures in South Africa when this phrase jumped out at me. I don't remember where I saw it but it stuck and still does today.
Ron retired several years ago and we decided it was now time to take the time and start working on our “Bucket List” with realistic thought. I couldn't believe I was actually planning our trips based on our age and physical capability and looking at that list we knew a romantic trip to Paris could be at any age but perhaps an East African Safari should be on top of our list now.
As we started planning, the call to return to my homeland got stronger by the day and what will follow in my blogs is in response to that African Tug of Home. I may not be seeking many new landscapes that are places as they are mostly not new to me but they may well have changed as it has been 16 years ago since I was “back home.” This trip my “landscapes” will be people and their life experiences, past and present, then and now.
I will however hear these stories and see them all through “new eyes.” I will share my experiences so that “you” on your vicarious travels with me will also feel my new eyes as you will “see it” for your first time with me “now.”
I am a firm believer that messages, quotes, thoughts and ideas are planted in our path that are particularly meant for us to see. If it was not specifically “sent” to us we would not even pay it a moment of attention. The tug of home was one such message. As I am preparing and packing, I remembered one of my previous travel experiences that made this tug of home become stronger. That was “Then” and now I go forward into “Now” and write all my stories as seen with the new eyes of a 76-year-old.
I was 61 years old and looking way up the magnificent Table Mountain ready to hike to the top. I grew up in South Africa and had been at the top many many times before and every time I was in awe at view from the top and how high up we were. As a child we had pretended we were birds flying way up in the clouds as we felt the wind in our faces as we ran all over the top with outstretched arms, probably scaring my parents as we kept hearing “be careful, keep your eyes open, look where you are going, it is a long way to fall”. These trips “into the wind and the clouds” were such fun but I had never given it a thought that this possibility was a privilege.
I hired Derek, a wonderful African young guide through the backpacker hostel I was staying in and we set off onto the trail leading up 4000 ft to the top. I made mention right away that despite my American accent, I too am South African and with that, he did a double take. “Yislaaik, you sound like you are American, really, you are a South African?” Reverting to my South African accent I replied “Yup, I was born and raised near Joburg but have lived in the States for 53 years but I will always be a South African” That did it as he nodded saying, “ja, now I hear that you are“
We started up the much-worn trail and I was determined to enjoy every moment but knew I would need to stop to catch my breath regularly, after all, I was 61.! “Derek. could we make a few stops along the way?” I asked, “I would love to know more about you and I can share more about me.” Derek looked at me in surprise saying, “I would like that and I am surprised that “an older South African white woman” could be interested.” I knew then we would have some good conversations.
I stopped to feel the wind on my cheeks and to smell the fragrance of the Fynbos vegetation around me and take photos of the magnificent view. Looking across at Derek I realized I needed to start the conversation.
“Derek, being the dreamer I am, I recognize dreamers in others” I said and this first stop I made became so much more than to catch my breath. “Derek, both of us are looking way out into the distance and I am thinking I am here for one of my recent dreams, to show I am adventurous enough for a TV show Survivor, I want to be on. However, I sense you are not just looking at the view, perhaps you are looking back and thinking about the dream you have, can you share?”
We both chose a rock to sit on and he began.
“I grew up in one of the townships at the base of this beautiful mountain” he started with a faraway look “and I always dreamed about climbing way to the top and taking many others with me, but knew at this time that was only a dream.” He added “Despite my family, who kept reminding me of our reality, they encouraged me to keep my dream alive.”
Sitting on my rock I found my eyes tearing up thinking about the injustice of our country that only allowed a silent dream because of skin color.
“I am so sorry Derek, when I was growing up, I too had many dreams and all of them were a possibility only because I was white.” This made me really sad and I had to look away as tears welled up in my eyes.
“Anyway," he said, shaking his head “That dream always stayed alive and because I believed one day, things would be different, I am now the proud owner of my own hiking business, guiding people like you to the top.” He stopped and we both looked at the magnificent view, I think for both of us to regroup our emotions.
He continued “That was then and this is now. Thank you for hiring me to guide you up this natural treasure in our country and being part of making my dream become a reality.”
Four hours later we reached the top and I was in awe, not at my accomplishment but how my eyes had truly been opened and not only by the beauty of the surroundings but by listening to Derek on the way up. He and I had grown up under the Apartheid regime and I had enjoyed all the privileges of being white, including the beauty from the top of Table Mountain. Now with new eyes wide open, I felt ashamed I had always taken the view for granted. Thank you, Derek.
The next part of this adventure would open my new eyes even wider. I was putting on the repelling equipment at the top and looking down 4000 ft where I was about to repel 400ft for the first time and at 61, for a video application for Survivor. As I was reciting “fear is temporary but regret is permanent”, I noticed a large group of African men and women staring in awe at the magnificent view. They were all about my age dressed in their Sunday best, with tongues clicking the African exclamation of joy “hau.” I had to know more and addressed the gentleman closest to me in the African greeting I had not forgotten.
“Dumela Nkosi, I see you and your group are enjoying this view as I am, is this your first time up here?”
“Dumela Nkosazana” he replied . As he spoke my new eyes got even wider
. “We are a church choir from way up beyond Johannesburg,” said one of the lovely gentlemen with a broad smile. “We have saved our money, been on a plane for the first time and here we are for the first time ever, seeing our magnificent country because we were never allowed up here before and here we are now.” I held the gentleman’s hand and explained that despite having an American accent I too had grown up in South Africa.
“I am honored to meet all of you and I feel privileged to share this long overdue experience with you that you had been denied because of our hate-filled government.”
The man chuckled and said looking at my harness “Thank you, but we will not share your crazy experience jumping off this mountain”
With that, I waved ‘Sala Khale’, stay well and took off hearing ‘Hamba Khale’ that I knew was “go well” in Zulu.
The thrill of my first repel only added to this amazing adventure but when I reached the parking lot at the base of the mountain, the experience continued. I heard beautiful African singing so I looked for the source. I found my new found ‘African Friends’ singing their hearts out and they beckoned me to come and join them which I did.
In the true African belief of Ubuntu they said “we sing because we are so happy and we want to share this happiness with others.”
They invited me to sing along with them and I surprised them by singing along with them, several of their Xhosa songs I had learned from Mabel, my African nanny, so we all sang even louder.
For all my new friends I made on that serendipitous adventure, they sought new landscapes which they saw through new eyes and I go ahead into the now with “new eyes” opened wide by my day of experiences.
My ‘now’ will once again include a trip into the wind and the clouds way up on the top of Table Mountain knowing this is still a privilege. I will remember my previous experience and recall how my new eyes were opened.
I will look around at the diversity of all the people enjoying their trip to the top and know that many will never understand what it took back “then” for this mountain to be open for all of us. If We must be careful, if we do not keep our eyes open, look where we are going and keep going forward in all ways it will be a long way to fall.
As I travel, I will greet all I meet with the Zulu word “ Sawabona” I see you and recognize the importance and the worth and dignity of each and every person.
“Sawabona” to all. I hope you enjoy your vicarious travels with us.